You will need 31 volts in to get 120 volts out at no load. HOWEVER, a standard, off the shelf AVR (automatic voltage regulator) will not have the current capacity to properly energise your field directly.įrom the field resistance values you have supplied, and the voltages you found when testing, I strongly suspect that your problem lies in the static exciter. Voltage regulators for that size set are pretty generic and/or interchangeable. The only other one I have seen was an old Caterpillar.Ī static exciter may have the voltage regulator built in, or it may be basically a power amplifier controlled by a standard voltage regulator.
#Flash a generator with a battery generator#
I found some of your other queries and got a little new information.Īpparently, your generator has a static exciter. I did some googling on your model number. Just need to identify the key components, look for expected results from each, and lots of ohming to ensure all is connected from point to point.
![flash a generator with a battery flash a generator with a battery](https://www.usautoauthority.com/wp-content/uploads/2017/12/charge-rv-battery-with-generator.jpg)
Check if sensing/power voltages are rising/falling when being flashed.Īny number of things it could be on these old small units. If you've confirmed diode installation/brushes/wiring to them is good, and flashing gives you a predicted result, investigate the regulation circuit it has. If running a solid state regulator, you want to disconnect the leads from the regulator before doing this, or put a diode on the B+ line before flashing to avoid sparking surprises. This is where you want to flash the DC in. To do a conclusive flash while it is running, identify F1 an F2 wires going to the excitor. Also, not being real familiar with Kohler model #'s, I don't know how old it is-how advanced of a voltage regulating system it has. You need to answer jraef's questions above to yourself in your troubleshooting process. Does it have an output? Does it have a Field Circuit Breaker that may be open?Įng-Tips: Help for your job, not for your homework Read FAQ731-376 RE: flashing 3 phase generator powerwagon75 (Electrical) 3 Jul 06 22:13 Is your exciter properly connected? You mentioned having replaced the diodes, are you sure all the wires went back onto the same terminals? Now that I think of it, why did you have to replace the diodes anyway? If they shorted, chances are some other part of the circuit was damaged as well. The fact that it can do that means you should have enough to get the exciter going. The 30V output you are getting is likely the result of some small amount of residual magnetism in the rotor. After that the exciter circuit needs to take over on its own. In fact, the initial flashing on most small portables can be done with very little voltage, I have done it with a drill motor as a generator in a pinch (I won't go into details unless asked). OK then, did you realize that a synchronous generator must have power applied to the exciter at all times? Flashing is just to set up an initial field on a brand new generator or one that has been out of service for a long time where the residual magnetism in the rotor is insufficient to provide enough power to the exciter system, and is usually done off of the same battery used to start the engine.
![flash a generator with a battery flash a generator with a battery](https://m.media-amazon.com/images/I/61xOjMlIhCL._AC_SX355_.jpg)
To avoid repeating a bunch of issues, please read this older thread: thread659-117376īeing that yours does have brushes we can assume that you have a synchronous generator, which makes sense since you are expecting to run it in island mode. They will have some sage advice.įlamin Systems, Inc.- RE: flashing 3 phase generator holo (Electrical)
![flash a generator with a battery flash a generator with a battery](https://i.ytimg.com/vi/oX5HHGjuk3M/maxresdefault.jpg)
Others will come along who sleep and eat generators. Make sure your ammeter is good for several amps. If you could put an ammeter of some sort in the field circuit you could see if the VR was functioning. Again the regulator's job is to look at the output voltage and adjust the field current accordingly. At this point you would want to focus on the regulator. If you can and you see it rise dramatically never mind to 208V then you can probably assume the field is intact and the 'mechanical' generator is okay. If that is so you may be able to provide some 'manual' field current and see the output rise. Generally that is where the problem lies.įirst though you said 'rings' these are for the field then? Generally if you are getting 30V there is more than enough energy available to allow the generator to 'build' up to normal. Shucks I had a gen that put out about 25Vac until you dropped a load on it then 'bang' 120Vac.